Brilliant San Francisco Designer Robert Berry, Part Two:

May 6th, 2010 by Liza | Published in Fashion, Fashionable People | 1 Comment

Tools of the trade

“What is an early fashion memory.”

“I was watching the Avengers and I remember being blown away by Diana Rigg and that leather catsuit she wore with the big leather belt and stiletto heels. That was a revelation. I started drawing that outfit over and over again.”

“How old were you?”

“Four or five. I wanted my mom to dress like that so I started bringing her sketches of what I thought she should wear. If you’ve never met my mom, picture a short, curvy, Central American woman with an accent. She was working as a social worker and has always been very practical. She’d say ‘I can’t wear that. I can’t dress like that for work’ and I’d say ‘why not? She does.’ Then I’d say ‘you should wear your hair with a flip like that.’ ‘But my hair doesn’t do that,’ my mom would say. ‘Yes, but there are wigs,’ I’d insist. ”

“Did she indulge you?”

“No. She was too practical. She never encouraged me, but she never discouraged either. She’d just have my sketches sitting on her desk. I would sketch an entire wardrobe for her, the kind of shoes she should have, her evening gowns, everything. Then I started making doll clothes for my sisters’ dolls. I would trace their bodies and make stuff from scraps of left over material.”

Helena wearing "the most gorgeous coat"

“How many sisters do you have?”

“Five.”

“Talk about your designs.”

“I’m very old fashioned in that way I look at contemporary designers and the prices they are asking. I want to make clothes for someone who is willing to invest in how they look, but who will also have those clothes in their closet for a long time. The simple integrity of what I design transcends seasons. Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, these are all my inspirations.”

The coat in action

Robert has been designing for 23 years. It is obvious that it is what he was meant to do, but the path to opening his little jewel box shop on Octavia has been a windy one. It was pure chance (or not if you believe in fate) that Robert found himself the apprentice of clothing designer Miguel Dominguez, who was well known by the starlets of the 30s, 40s and 50s. The seventy eight year- old designer had been looking for someone to whom he could pass down his knowledge, but his difficult personality kept young people at bay. ‘I’ve always wanted to have an apprentice and to pass this on to someone, but my children were never interested.’ He told Robert, in whom he found a talented and willing pupil. ‘He taught me about draping and how clothes fit, just generally how to make clothes really well. He taught me what is and what is not cheap looking.’ Robert apprenticed with him for a year and a half before Don Miguel died.

“What is the biggest fashion faux pas?”

“Not knowing your body and not realizing what looks good on you. The best accessory is a long mirror. I don’t dictate to anyone, but you have to be honest with yourself as to what looks good on you and what s flattering.”

“O.K. so what looks good on anyone?”

“I’m going to be boring and say black. Or on the other hand a bold, bright color. You will be the focus of attention if you wear color.”